Why it's time to incorporate algae in your skincare

Nature has always played an important part in skincare formulas. Take centella asiatica (also known as cica), for example: this herbaceous green plant not only contains the active ingredient madecassoside which acts as an antioxidant but is also abundant in amino acids that help soothe temperamental skin. Meanwhile, squalane – often derived from olives and sugar cane – is a key ingredient for aiding dry complexions.

Another ingredient that’s well worth its weight in gold is algae, with its resilient nature – it's able to withstand drastic temperatures and environmental changes – making it a power player when ingested as a superfood and when incorporated in your skincare routine (the iconic Creme de la Mer is packed full of the stuff). But how does algae work and why does it benefit the complexion? We went straight to the experts to find out.

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What are algae?

The term algae refers to an expansive family of photosynthetic aquatic organisms which range from single cell beings to large kelps often spotted on your beach holiday. Seaweed sits within the algae species.

"The key difference is structural – seaweed has a more intricate structure than other types of algae, including stems, leaves and roots," explains Mark Walton, co-founder of Voya, the Irish brand that has championed seaweed since its inception in 2006.

What are the benefits of algae in skincare?

The moisturising and soothing effects of seaweed is well-documented, but resilient algae goes beyond simply hydrating the skin. "Certain types of algae have bioactive compounds that are shown to be anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, brightening and even boost cell defence against UV," says A-list facialist, Sarah Chapman, whose latest launch, Digital Shield, boasts astaxanthin, an algae-derived active high in antioxidants to protect the complexion.

Algae is also a rich source of vitamins and minerals, including B, C, E and magnesium, and is brimming with omega 3 fatty acids and amino acids – all integral for skin health. It’s packed with iodine too, which has bacteria-balancing properties to help speed up skin healing.

According to Walton, algae contains bioactive compounds not found anywhere else, including fucoxanthin, a powerful antioxidant that can quench harmful free radicals and phlorotannins, a type of polyphenol, whose antioxidant activity fights against the free radicals that damage our cells and DNA.

What type of algae are found in skincare?

Within skincare formulations, you’ll often find macroalgae such as kelp and seaweed, while microalgae (ones that can only been seen via a microscope) are rarer. Chapman’s Digital Rest Night Cream contains the microalgae-derived Lanablue which has "smoothing, densifying effects" on the skin, says Chapman.

Meanwhile, Voya builds their formulas around four different types of seaweed, according to Walton:

Fucus Serratus (Serrated Wrack): Used for hundreds of years in seaweed baths, this plant survives by filtering the ocean for nutrients and as a result amasses a huge amount of minerals and vitamins.

Laminaria Digitata (Tangleweed): This seaweed contains an amazing abundance of minerals. It has strong anti-inflammatory properties, protects the skin from the environmental damage and helps plump up the complexion.

Fucus Vesiculosus (Bladder Wrack): When used in hot seawater baths or steamed, Fucus Vesiculosus releases polysaccharides (such as alginic acid) and iodine as well as other minerals. It is harvested in autumn for its high vitamin C content and, in the summer, for its high vitamin A content.

Himanthalia Elongata (Sea Spaghetti): This seaweed is predominantly used for those with combination or oily skin. It provides high levels of vitamins along with essential amino acids. It has a natural ability to restore balance to the skin’s moisture levels.

Voya hand-harvests its seaweed before processing in Ireland. "It is important that the seaweed is harvested from clean, unpolluted waters to guarantee its purity, which the Atlantic West Coast of Ireland offers,” explains Walton. Seaweed can be sensitive to conventional processing methods so the brand takes extra care to minimise use of high heat and avoids drying out the seaweed.

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Where are algae sourced from?

For the skincare brand REN, the brown algae found in its Atlantic Kelp line is supplied by licensed seaweed harvesters and fishermen in the North Atlantic Ocean. “The kelp is cut above the holdfast, which means that it will regrow,” says Camille Poggi, REN's scientific communication manager.

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Hand harvesting is still the most common (and the best) method of seaweed farming as it doesn’t disturb the delicate seabed or marine life. "Our expert harvesting team checks the tide levels of the Atlantic Ocean weeks in advance to strategically plan which type of seaweed to harvest based on tides and weather conditions," explains Walton. To prevent over-harvesting, only a small proportion of seaweed is cut at a time and harvesters move on to different areas to allow new growth plenty of time to flourish.

What skin types will benefit most from algae?

In general, experts agree that algae will play well with most complexions and needs due to its nourishing and antioxidative properties. That said, it’s important to look at the formula as a whole to see if there is anything within it that would react with your skin type.

Sarah Chapman Sarah Chapman Digital Shield Day Cream

Forget a multi-step morning routine, this hardworking moisturiser is loaded with antioxidants to protect your complexion from environmental damage while tackling dullness, pigmentation and dehydration. The lightweight gel texture wears well under make-up and has a gentle, brightening tint for days you choose to go without.

Biossance Squalane + Marine Algae Eye Cream

Parched under-eyes will instantly soak up this nourishing cream, which combines the hydrating prowess of plant-based squalane and algae.

Voya Cleanse and Mend Facial Cleansing Milk

Treat your complexion to a luxurious cleanse with this velvety milk. It thoroughly removes every scrap of make-up without stripping the skin, thanks to a cocktail of omega-rich sea buckthorn oil, nourishing seaweed extracts and shea butter to keep everything feeling plush and comfortable.

Ren EverHydrate Marine Moisture-Restore Serum

Formulated to be kind on fragile skin types, this hydrating serum uses a combination of green caviar algae, hyaluronic acid and wild rosella extracts to plump up the complexion.

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